Bellapais: a Gothic abbey above the Northern Cyprus coast

Northern Cyprus is administered by Turkey, recognized only by Turkey; the United Nations considers it occupied territory.

A Gothic masterpiece in the hills above the sea

In 1953, the writer Lawrence Durrell rented a house in the village below this ruined Augustinian abbey and spent three years here, writing “Bitter Lemons of Cyprus” — his memoir of that period. He called Bellapais one of the most beautiful places he had ever lived. The abbey was already a ruin when Durrell arrived, its 13th-century Gothic nave open to the sky, its cloister arcades intact but empty. That has not changed.

Bellapais Abbey (from the French “Abbaye de la Paix” — Abbey of Peace) was founded in the early 13th century by the Lusignan kings who ruled Cyprus as a crusader kingdom. It is one of the most completely surviving Gothic monastic complexes in the Levant, and its combination of architectural quality, coastal mountain setting, and accessible ruin state makes it genuinely remarkable.

What makes Bellapais special

The abbey occupies a terrace cut into the hillside above the village, at approximately 220 metres altitude. From the refectory’s great north window, and from the cloister garths, the view extends across the coastal plain to Kyrenia harbour and the sea beyond. On clear days in spring and autumn, the Taurus Mountains of southern Turkey are visible on the horizon.

The ruins are extensive and well-preserved. The 14th-century refectory is the most intact major space — a vaulted hall with a decorated rib ceiling, a pulpit carved into the north wall (from which a monk would read scripture during meals), and three large Gothic windows facing north over the coastal plain. The cloister is complete on three sides, its arcades carrying elaborately carved column capitals. The church, to the south, is partly collapsed but retains its apse and south wall.

Bellapais village itself has grown up around the abbey over centuries. The village café below the abbey entrance — where Durrell spent many evenings — still functions under the famous mulberry tree he described. The village retains a quiet character, with a mixture of Turkish Cypriot families and European expatriate residents.

Top things to do here

Explore the abbey ruins. Allow 60–90 minutes for a thorough visit. The refectory and cloister are the highlights. The carved capitals in the cloister reward close attention — medieval monsters, foliage, and human faces appear throughout.

Have coffee at the café under the mulberry tree. The café at the abbey entrance is not just a convenience stop — it is a place mentioned by Lawrence Durrell in his memoir and still recognisable from his descriptions. Sit and look at the view towards the sea.

Combine with St. Hilarion Castle. The two most important medieval sites in the Kyrenia region are 15 km apart. A private guide covers both comfortably in a half-day from Kyrenia.

Join a Kyrenia half-day tour covering both sites. Several operators offer morning or afternoon circuits combining Bellapais and St. Hilarion from Kyrenia harbour.

Visit from Famagusta on a full northern loop. Tours from Famagusta that cover Kyrenia, Bellapais, and St. Hilarion make an efficient circuit of the main Kyrenia sites.

Practical info

Border crossing. Bellapais is in Northern Cyprus. Enter via any official border crossing — from Kyrenia harbour or via the Nicosia crossings. Valid passport required. Your hire car needs supplementary insurance for Northern Cyprus (~€30 at the border crossing).

Getting there. 8 km south of Kyrenia via the main road towards Nicosia and then the signed Bellapais turn-off. Drive time approximately 15 minutes. The village is narrow; park at the abbey car park below the entrance.

Entry fee. Approximately 100 TRY (around €3) for adults. Prices in Northern Cyprus fluctuate with the lira; bring local currency.

Opening hours. Daily 8 am to 5 pm in winter, until 7 pm in summer. Closed during some Turkish national holidays.

Photography. Excellent throughout the site. The north window of the refectory is particularly dramatic — the arch frames the coastal view below.

When to visit. Spring (April–June) brings wildflowers to the hillside below the abbey and mild temperatures. October is excellent. July and August are hot — visit early morning.

Where to eat nearby

Bellapais village has the café under the mulberry tree at the abbey entrance, and one or two small restaurants in the village. Simple food at modest prices.

Kyrenia harbour (8 km north) has the widest range of restaurants in Northern Cyprus, from fresh fish at harbour-side restaurants to international cuisine. Worth the short drive for a proper lunch or dinner.

How it fits into a Cyprus itinerary

Bellapais is consistently paired with St. Hilarion Castle for a half-day or full-day Kyrenia circuit. Both are medieval, both have sea views, and together they represent the best of Lusignan-era architecture in Northern Cyprus. If you are crossing from the south for a day, the most logical loop from Nicosia crosses at Ledra Street, drives to Kyrenia for coffee, visits both Bellapais and St. Hilarion, and returns via the same crossing by evening.

Frequently asked questions

Who was Lawrence Durrell and why is he associated with Bellapais?

Lawrence Durrell (1912–1990) was a British novelist best known for the Alexandria Quartet. He lived in Bellapais village from 1953 to 1956 and wrote “Bitter Lemons of Cyprus” about his experience there. The book remains one of the most readable accounts of pre-independence Cyprus and brought international attention to the village.

Is Bellapais better than St. Hilarion Castle?

They are different kinds of site. Bellapais is a ruined monastery with Gothic architecture at its most refined — better for those interested in medieval ecclesiastical architecture. St. Hilarion is a mountain castle with defensive towers and dramatic clifftop setting — better for those who like castle exploring and panoramic views. Most visitors find both worth seeing.

Do I need a tour to visit Bellapais?

No — independent visits are straightforward if you have a car with Northern Cyprus insurance. The site is well-signposted from Kyrenia.

Is Bellapais village safe and welcoming to visitors?

Yes. The village is quiet and well-accustomed to visitors. Turkish Cypriot villages in Northern Cyprus are generally hospitable to tourists from all backgrounds.

What is the best time of day to visit Bellapais?

Morning visits before noon get the best light on the north-facing refectory window. Late afternoon can be dramatic for the hillside colours. Avoid midday in July and August.