Polis and Latchi: the quiet north Paphos coast

Where the Paphos crowds thin out

Drive 38 km north of Paphos and the resort hotels and busy roundabouts gradually give way to orange groves, carob trees, and a coastline that feels genuinely undiscovered. Polis Chrysochous — usually shortened to Polis — is a small market town with a working central square, a handful of tavernas, and a modest museum dedicated to the ancient kingdom of Marion that once occupied this ground. Three kilometres from Polis, at the foot of the Akamas hills, the harbour of Latchi is one of the most photogenic corners of the Paphos region: a small fishing quay, colourful wooden boats, and the deep turquoise of Chrysochous Bay stretching north towards the Akamas headland.

This is where many experienced Cyprus travellers choose to base themselves when they want the Paphos region without the package tourism.

What makes Polis and Latchi special

The Akamas peninsula begins at the northern edge of Latchi. Cyprus’s most significant national park, Akamas contains the only large piece of undeveloped coastline left on the island — sea turtle nesting beaches, walking trails through Mediterranean scrubland, and the famous Blue Lagoon, a natural anchorage where the water shades from pale turquoise to deep cobalt depending on depth and light.

Polis itself is refreshingly ordinary — a real Cypriot town rather than a resort construction. The central square has plane trees, a small museum, and tavernas that cater to locals as much as visitors. The municipal beach at Polis, a few minutes’ walk from the town centre, is well maintained and uncrowded by Paphos standards.

Latchi harbour is best visited in the early morning when the fishing boats return, or at sunset when the light catches the water and the harbour walls glow amber. The tavernas here are generally good for fresh fish, though as always in Cyprus, the more prominent tourist-facing places charge a premium — a short walk back from the quay finds better value.

The area is also a base for exploring the Akamas by foot. The Aphrodite Trail (7.5 km) and Adonis Trail (7.5 km) both start from the Baths of Aphrodite, a shaded natural pool 3 km west of Latchi, and traverse the highest ridges of the peninsula with views across to Turkey on clear days.

Top things to do here

Take a Blue Lagoon boat trip from Latchi. This is the most popular activity in the area, and rightly so. Boat trips from Latchi harbour reach the Blue Lagoon in 30–40 minutes, allowing time to swim in extraordinarily clear water before continuing to other sea caves and coves. Many trips include a BBQ lunch on board.

Snorkel the Blue Lagoon on a glass-bottom boat. For those who prefer to see the underwater world without getting wet, glass-bottom boats depart from Latchi and provide views of the seabed through the hull. Cold drinks are usually included.

Hike the Aphrodite Trail. Starting from the Baths of Aphrodite, this circular trail climbs through pine forest and macchia scrubland to the top of the Akamas ridge. The route is 7.5 km and moderately challenging. Carry water — shade is limited on the upper section.

Visit the Baths of Aphrodite. A 10-minute walk from the main car park, this shaded grotto and pool is linked to the myth of Aphrodite’s bathing place. The site is managed by the Forestry Department and entry is free. It is very popular — visit before 9 am or after 5 pm to have it largely to yourself.

Explore Polis market and square. The Wednesday market in Polis draws locals from surrounding villages selling produce, honey, and olives. The small archaeological museum on the square covers finds from the ancient kingdom of Marion, including Hellenistic and Roman pottery.

Camp in the Polis forest campsite. The Forestry Department campsite at Polis (near the beach) is one of the few proper campgrounds in the Paphos region. Basic facilities, shaded pitches, low cost — a genuinely different way to experience the area.

Practical info

Getting there. From Paphos, take the B7 northward through Coral Bay and Peyia, continuing to Polis. The drive is approximately 45 minutes. Public bus (route 625 from Paphos Karavella) runs several times daily but is slow; a hire car gives far more flexibility to explore the Akamas.

Latchi harbour. Boat trips can be booked directly at the quay or in advance online. In high season (July–August), advance booking is advisable. Trips typically run 9 am to 4 pm.

Baths of Aphrodite. The car park fills quickly in high season. A shuttle bus runs from Latchi in summer. Entry to the site is free. The grotto pool is not for swimming — it is a protected heritage site.

Akamas hiking. Trails are waymarked and maps are available at the Baths of Aphrodite car park. Carry at least 1.5 litres of water per person. Some trails are accessible by mountain bike.

Accommodation. Polis has several small hotels and apartments. Latchi has a handful of self-catering studios with harbour views. Book well ahead for August.

When to visit. April to early June is ideal — wildflowers cover the Akamas hillsides, the sea is warm enough to swim, and crowds are manageable. September and October offer warm water and cooler air. July and August are hot and busier but still far quieter than Paphos resort areas.

Where to eat nearby

Latchi harbour tavernas serve fresh fish and seafood. The smaller, older-looking tavernas away from the main quay wall generally offer better value than the prominently positioned tourist places. Look for grilled lavraki (sea bass) or red mullet when available.

Polis main square has a handful of traditional cafés and tavernas. Reliable options for meze and Cypriot coffee. The pace of service is unhurried — lean into it.

Droushia village, 15 km inland, has one of the most scenically positioned tavernas in the Paphos district, with views across the Chrysochous valley. Worth the detour for lunch on a clear day.

How it fits into a Cyprus itinerary

Polis and Latchi work best as a 1–2 night stop when doing a loop of the Paphos region. From Paphos, come north via Coral Bay and Peyia; spend a day in the Akamas (boat trip plus one hike); continue south the next day via the wine villages of the Paphos highlands (Stroumpi, Lysos) back to Paphos, or east across the island. The Blue Lagoon boat trip alone justifies the drive from Paphos.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Blue Lagoon accessible without a boat?

A rough 4WD track reaches the lagoon from the inland side, but it is not drivable in a standard hire car and involves a walk at the end. The boat from Latchi is by far the most practical approach and offers the best views of the surrounding coastline.

Can I swim at the Baths of Aphrodite?

No. The grotto pool is a protected natural monument and swimming is not permitted. There is a good beach at Latchi harbour within easy walking distance.

Is there public transport from Paphos to Polis?

Yes — bus route 625 runs from Paphos Karavella station. However, the service is infrequent outside summer and does not continue to Latchi or the Baths of Aphrodite. A hire car is strongly recommended if you want to explore the area properly.

What is the best time of day to visit Latchi harbour?

Early morning (7–9 am) when fishing boats are active, or late afternoon (5–7 pm) for the best light and a quieter experience than midday. Sunset drinks at a harbour taverna are a highlight.

Are there good beaches near Polis?

The municipal beach at Polis is pleasant and uncrowded. Latchi has a small beach. Further north, towards the Akamas, there are more remote beaches accessible by 4WD, including Lara Beach — one of the main loggerhead turtle nesting sites in Cyprus.