Best restaurants in Nicosia: where to eat in the capital

Eating well in the divided capital

Nicosia has a reputation, among people who haven’t visited, as the least interesting Cypriot city for food. This is wrong. The capital has a serious restaurant scene that the coastal resort towns lack — partly because it serves a year-round local population rather than a summer-only tourist trade, and partly because proximity to the old town’s traditional culture keeps certain standards alive.

The city divides roughly into the old town (within the Venetian walls), where the traditional tavernas and meze houses concentrate, and the modern suburbs — particularly Strovolos and Aglandjia — where a younger, more internationalist restaurant culture has developed over the past decade. The best meals in Nicosia span both worlds.

Meze in the old town

The traditional Nicosian meze is longer and more varied than the coastal versions — a proper village-style progression that takes two hours from the bread and olives to the dessert pastries and complimentary zivania. The sequence runs from cold mezedes (taramosalata, hummus, tahini, olives, pickled vegetables, village salad, halloumi, anari cheese, smoked pork loin/lountza) through hot mezedes (koupepia/stuffed vine leaves, keftedes/meat balls, makaronia tou fournou/Cypriot-style pasta bake) to the main course (grilled meats — souvla, kalamari, lamb chops) and finishing with fresh fruit and traditional sweets.

Mattheos: One of the most reliable old-town meze houses, on Odhos Omirou in the heart of the old town. The terrace extends onto the street in summer and fills with a mix of locals and visitors. The meze here is comprehensive rather than selective — you will not leave hungry. Expect €22–28 per person with wine. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Piatsa Gourounaki: The name means “The Pig Square” — a reference to the roast pork (antikristo-style, on a vertical spit) that is the establishment’s signature. Located on Agkyras Street, just off the main tourist circuit, it has a faithful local following. The pork is excellent; the meze sides are generous. €25–35 per person.

Laiki Geitonia: The restored neighbourhood just inside the Paphos Gate is now a self-contained tourist dining quarter — pretty, convenient, and inevitably somewhat pricier than the tavernas two streets away. Quality varies; the better establishments here serve solid traditional Cypriot cooking in atmospheric surroundings. For a visitor who wants convenience, Laiki Geitonia works; for a visitor who wants value and authenticity, walk another 200 metres.

Modern Cypriot cuisine

The most interesting development in Nicosia’s restaurant scene over the last ten years has been the emergence of a coherent modern Cypriot cooking movement — chefs trained internationally who have returned to work with indigenous ingredients, traditional techniques, and local wine pairings in contemporary presentations.

Plein Soleil (Strovolos): The restaurant most consistently cited in this category, Plein Soleil works with seasonal Cypriot produce and indigenous wine varieties to produce a tasting menu that engages seriously with the food culture of the island. The wine list is exceptional by Cyprus standards — primarily local producers, including rarities from the Commandaria zone and the Troodos foothill wineries. Reservations essential at weekends. Tasting menu approximately €65–75 per person with wine pairing.

Almonds (Nicosia old town): A smaller, less formal modern-Cypriot option in the old town itself, useful for visitors who don’t have time to travel to Strovolos. The lunch menu is significantly more affordable than the dinner version and gives access to the kitchen’s intelligence without the full occasion commitment. Lunch €18–25, dinner €35–45.

The kafeneion and the quick lunch

Not every meal in Nicosia needs to be a production. For a quick and authentic midday stop, the traditional kafeneion circuit in the old town offers exactly what Cypriot food should be at its simplest:

Kafeneion Panikos (near the Ledra Street checkpoint): thick Cypriot coffee, toasted sandwiches with halloumi and tomato, and the ambient soundtrack of backgammon and political argument. A coffee and a sandwich costs €3–4. Open from early morning.

Selimiye area (North Nicosia): After crossing the Ledra Street checkpoint, the small cafés on the streets behind the Selimiye Mosque (former Cathedral of St Sophia) serve Turkish coffee, börek (cheese-filled pastry), and small plates at prices that feel very different from the south side. The Bandabuliya covered market has several simple lunch spots. See our Nicosia walking guide.

Wine bars and evening options

Nicosia’s evening bar scene is concentrated in two areas: the old town (particularly around the Chrysaliniotissa neighbourhood) and the modern quarter around Makarios Avenue and the adjacent streets.

Oenoteca Kyperountis (Chrysaliniotissa): A wine bar specialising in Cypriot wines, with an impressive selection of producers from the Troodos and Paphos hill regions alongside a small menu of wine-compatible foods — charcuterie, cheeses, small hot dishes. An excellent way to explore Cyprus’s indigenous wine culture before committing to a bottle at a restaurant. See our Cyprus wine guide.

Stoa del Libro (old town): A bookshop that becomes a bar in the evening, serving wine and small plates in a converted Ottoman-period building. The atmosphere is unique to Nicosia — intellectual, cosmopolitan, and warmly informal.

Getting to and around Nicosia’s restaurants

Nicosia has limited on-street parking in the old town; most visitors park outside the walls and walk. The Constanza Bastion car park (outside the wall near the Paphos Gate) and the Tripoli Bastion area have paid parking. Taxis are inexpensive (€5–8 for most journeys within the city).

For visitors based on the coast, Nicosia is accessible from Larnaca (45 km, 35 minutes) and Limassol (80 km, 55 minutes) by fast road. See our public transport guide for bus options.

Nicosia: Private Walking Tour with a Local Guide Nicosia: Last Divided City, Tour combining South & North

A suggested food day in Nicosia

Morning: Coffee and pastry at a Chrysaliniotissa café. Walk through the old town to the Cyprus Museum (2 hours). Visit the Byzantine Museum and Archbishop’s Palace area.

Lunch: Traditional meze at Mattheos or Piatsa Gourounaki (arrive by 13:00 to get a table without waiting).

Afternoon: Cross the Ledra Street checkpoint; coffee and loukoumi at a North Nicosia café; explore the covered market and Büyük Han.

Evening: Return to south Nicosia; wine bar at Oenoteca Kyperountis; dinner at Plein Soleil (book ahead).

Frequently asked questions about eating in Nicosia

Is Nicosia good for vegetarians?

Increasingly yes. The traditional meze has strong vegetarian elements (hummus, tahini, tabbouleh, village salad, halloumi, grilled vegetables, koupepia without meat stuffing), but the main courses are meat-focused. Modern restaurants like Plein Soleil and Almonds can accommodate vegetarian menus with advance notice. Vegan options are limited in traditional tavernas but available in the modern restaurant scene.

Are restaurants in Nicosia open on Sundays?

Most tavernas and meze houses open for Sunday lunch — Sunday family meze is a Cypriot institution. Many close Sunday evenings. Modern restaurants and bars vary. The old town is generally quieter on Sunday as local workers and businesses are closed, but the tourist-facing establishments remain open.

What is the price range for dinner in Nicosia?

Traditional taverna meze: €20–30 per person with wine. Modern restaurant tasting menu: €55–80 per person with wine pairing. Budget options (sandwiches, souvlaki plates): €5–12. Wine bars with small plates: €20–35 per person. Prices are generally 10–15% lower than equivalent quality in Limassol.

Is tipping expected in Nicosia restaurants?

A 10% tip is customary and appreciated for good service. Many restaurants add a service charge (5–10%) to the bill automatically — check before tipping additionally. Casual kafeneia and souvlaki places do not expect tips.

Where can I find the best halloumi in Nicosia?

Halloumi is ubiquitous and quality varies widely. The best versions come from traditional cheese producers in the Troodos villages. In Nicosia, look for restaurants that specify the source of their halloumi — some old-town tavernas source directly from Troodos producers. The supermarket halloumi (Charalambides Christis is the main brand) is reliable for what it is.