Commandaria: the world's oldest named wine

The wine that predates Rome, Greece, and the Crusaders

Wine has been made in the region we now call Cyprus for at least 5,500 years — archaeological evidence at Erimi (near Limassol) and Kissonerga (near Paphos) dates grape cultivation to the Late Chalcolithic period. But one specific style of sweet wine, produced on the southern foothills of the Troodos mountains, has been made continuously for at least 2,800 years and recorded under essentially the same name for over 800 years. That wine is Commandaria.

The poet Hesiod described Cyprus’s sweet wine in the 8th century BC. The Greek physician Galen recommended it for medicinal purposes. Philip Augustus of France and Richard the Lionheart drank it at Richard’s 1191 wedding in Cyprus after the conquest of the island during the Third Crusade — Richard reportedly declared it “the wine of kings and the king of wines.” The Crusader Order of the Knights of St John established their regional headquarters at Kolossi Castle near Limassol (still standing) and named the surrounding agricultural territory La Grande Commanderie — from which Commandaria takes its modern name.

In 1363, the first recorded wine-drinking competition in history — the “Battle of the Wines” organised by King Charles V of France — included Commandaria, which was declared the winner among 30 European wines. It held the title of the world’s most famous wine through much of the medieval period.

How Commandaria is made

The PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) specifications for Commandaria are precise:

Location: Produced exclusively from grapes grown in 14 named villages on the southern Troodos slopes between 600–800 metres altitude. These villages form a tight geographic cluster around Kalokhorio, Zoopigi, Agios Konstantinos, Agios Mamas, Agios Georgios, Apsiou, Doros, Louvaras, Silikou, Monagri, Laneia, Pampelishia, Arsos, and Limnatis.

Grapes: Mavro (red) and Xynisteri (white) only. The grapes are harvested at full ripeness (mid-September) and then sun-dried on mats or frames for 10–15 days to concentrate sugars. After sun-drying, a kilogram of grapes yields perhaps 400 g of concentrated, high-sugar must.

Fermentation: The concentrated must is fermented slowly and typically arrested before all sugars are consumed, retaining sweetness. Alcohol levels in the final wine range from 10–15 percent. Some producers add grape spirit to arrest fermentation (a fortification method also used in Port).

Ageing: PDO rules require a minimum two years of ageing in wooden barrels. Most quality Commandaria ages 4–8 years. Some special editions from KEO and Etko age longer. The wine develops an amber-to-mahogany colour, with oxidative notes (raisins, dried figs, caramel, orange peel) that deepen with age.

Taste profile

Fresh Commandaria tastes of concentrated dried fruits — raisins, figs, dates — with honey sweetness and good natural acidity that prevents it from being cloying. Mid-range examples add caramel, dried orange peel, and a hint of spice. Aged versions develop Madeira-like oxidative complexity (roasted nuts, toffee, wood spice) while retaining fruit. The best examples have a long, complex finish.

It is typically served slightly chilled (12–14°C) with desserts, cheese, or as a digestif. The classic Cypriot pairing is Commandaria with aged halloumi or kefalotyri cheese — the sweet wine cuts through the salt effectively.

Where to taste Commandaria

The Commandaria villages themselves

Visiting one of the 14 villages is the best way to taste Commandaria in context. Zoopigi has a small but interesting Commandaria Museum. Laneia, a particularly pretty village, has a small winery and tavernas that serve the local wine by the glass.

Major wineries

KEO: The largest producer and most widely available Commandaria brand. Their “St John” Commandaria is the benchmark reference — clean, well-made, reliable. Available at every supermarket and wine shop in Cyprus.

Etko (Emva): Produces “Emva Cream” (the commercial sweet version) and a more serious aged Commandaria. The Etko winery in Limassol offers tours and tastings.

SODAP: The wine cooperative produces “Alasia” Commandaria — good value, widely available.

Keo and Loel: Both produce creditable Commandaria with different ageing profiles.

Guided wine experiences

Cyprus: Omodos, Arsos Village & Wine Tasting Authentic Gourmet Tour with Wine and Food Tasting Cyprus: Troodos Mountain Food & Wine Tasting Tour with Lunch

Kolossi Castle: the Commandaria connection

Kolossi Castle, 12 km west of Limassol, is the surviving medieval structure of the Knights of St John’s Grande Commanderie — the administrative headquarters from which Commandaria took its modern name. The 15th-century tower keep is well preserved, with original Gothic windows and a remarkably intact sugar mill (the Knights also processed sugar cane from the surrounding agricultural territory). Entry is inexpensive and the castle can be combined with a visit to ancient Kourion nearby.

Buying and taking home Commandaria

Commandaria is available in every supermarket and wine shop in Cyprus. Airport duty-free stocks multiple brands. A standard 750 ml bottle of KEO St John costs approximately €8–12 in Cypriot supermarkets. Premium aged editions from smaller producers cost €20–40. Half-bottles (375 ml) are useful for gifts.

EU travellers bringing Commandaria into EU countries face no restrictions. UK travellers can bring 2 litres duty-free. Always carry it as cabin baggage or in a wine travel bag in checked luggage (the bottles are glass and vulnerable to breakage).

Frequently asked questions about Commandaria

Is Commandaria actually the world’s oldest wine?

Commandaria holds the Guinness World Record as the world’s oldest wine appellation (a specific wine produced under a specific name in continuous production). Wine has been made in many regions for longer periods, but Commandaria’s unbroken name and specific geographic origin since at least the medieval period, built on millennia of earlier sweet wine production in the same region, is exceptional.

Is Commandaria like Port?

Stylistically related — both are sweet, fortified or naturally high-alcohol wines. But the production method, grape varieties, and flavour profile differ. Commandaria uses sun-dried grapes rather than spirit-arrested fermentation (though some producers do fortify), and the indigenous Cypriot grape varieties give it a distinct character. Think of them as cousins rather than equivalents.

Where can I buy Commandaria outside Cyprus?

Specialist wine merchants in the UK, Germany, and Scandinavia stock it. Cyprus Wine House (online, UK) ships regularly. KEO St John is the most widely distributed internationally. In Cyprus, buy directly from the producer or from O’nos Wine Bar (Nicosia) or other specialist wine shops for the best selection.

Can I visit the Commandaria villages?

Yes — the villages are in the Limassol district on the southern Troodos foothills. Most require a car. Zoopigi, Laneia, and Arsos are the most visitor-ready. The Cyprus wine route covers the logistics.

How should I serve Commandaria?

Lightly chilled (12–14°C) in a dessert wine glass. It partners well with desserts (baklava, cheesecake, chocolate), cheese (aged halloumi, blue cheese), or simply on its own as an after-dinner drink. A small pour (75–100 ml) is sufficient — it is sweet and concentrated.