Cyprus 7 days with north — Paphos, Troodos, Nicosia, Kyrenia and Famagusta

The itinerary that treats Cyprus as one island

Disclaimer: Northern Cyprus is administered by Turkey, recognized only by Turkey; the United Nations considers it occupied territory. This itinerary describes a legal crossing from south to north (and back) via one of the nine official crossing points. Always enter the island via Larnaca or Paphos airport (entering via Ercan airport in the north is considered an illegal entry by the Republic of Cyprus). Carry your passport or EU identity card. Rental cars from southern Cyprus do not always cover Northern Cyprus — budget approximately €30 for third-party insurance on the north side.

Seven days, both sides of the island. This itinerary is rated moderate not because of physical difficulty (there is no hiking beyond archaeological sites) but because crossing the Green Line requires administrative awareness and the change of currency, driving style and atmosphere demands flexibility. If you take it in that spirit, it is one of the most rewarding travel experiences in the Mediterranean.

At a glance

Day	Base	Focus
Day 1	Paphos	Archaeological park, Paphos harbour
Day 2	Paphos	Akamas peninsula, Blue Lagoon
Day 3	Troodos	Kykkos, mountain drive
Day 4	Nicosia	Green Line crossing, North Nicosia
Day 5	Kyrenia	St. Hilarion, Bellapais, harbour
Day 6	Famagusta	Walled city, Varosha, Salamis
Day 7	Larnaca	Return south, departure

Note on cars: Drive your southern hire car to Nicosia and park it. Cross on foot (or by taxi) and rent a separate car in the north for Days 5–6. Return to Nicosia, cross back, reclaim your southern car and drive to Larnaca. This is the standard approach. Alternatively, buy the north-side insurance add-on from your rental company if they offer it.

Day 1 — Paphos: archaeology and first impressions

Morning — Paphos Archaeological Park

Fly into Paphos airport (PFO) and collect your hire car. Drive to Kato Paphos and check in. Head directly to the Paphos Archaeological Park — the Roman mosaic villas are extraordinary and should not be rushed. The House of Dionysos, Theseus, Aion and Orpheus contain some of the finest Roman floor mosaics in existence. Allow 2–3 hours.

Paphos: Half-Day City Tour with Tombs of the Kings Entry — an excellent guided introduction covering the park and the Tombs of the Kings.

Afternoon — Tombs of the Kings and Paphos old town

The Tombs of the Kings necropolis (UNESCO) is 2 km north — rock-cut chambers from the 3rd century BC carved from the coastal limestone. Allow 90 minutes. Then lunch in Ktima old town: avoid the harbour, eat in the covered market area.

Evening: Harbour sunset, castle viewpoint, dinner inland.

Sleep: Paphos (2 nights). Almyra or Annabelle Hotel.

Day 2 — Akamas: Blue Lagoon and the wild peninsula

Paphos/Akamas: Blue Lagoon Bus & Boat Tour with Water Slide — bus and boat to the Blue Lagoon at Akamas. The turquoise water of the lagoon is the defining coastal image of western Cyprus. Swimming, water slide, traditional lunch.

Alternatively, for the full peninsula experience:

From Paphos or Limassol: Akamas National Park Jeep Safari — full-day jeep safari: Avakas Gorge, Lara Beach (turtle nesting), Aphrodite’s Baths, Blue Lagoon.

Afternoon: Return via Aphrodite’s Rock (Petra tou Romiou) for sunset photos.

Evening: Last dinner in Paphos before tomorrow’s mountain drive.

Day 3 — Troodos: Kykkos monastery and mountain villages

Check out of Paphos and drive northeast into the Troodos mountains (90 min to Kykkos). This is the day the island’s interior becomes real: pine forests, monasteries, wine villages, silence.

Kykkos Monastery: The wealthiest monastery in Cyprus, with mosaics covering every exterior surface. The icon of the Virgin is kept behind a curtain and cannot be photographed. Makarios III is buried at the nearby Throni hill viewpoint, a 10-minute walk. Dress respectfully.

From Paphos: Troodos — To the Highest Peaks — a guided day covering the highest peaks of Troodos, including Olympus viewpoint at 1,952 m. Useful if you want a guide for the mountain geography and botany.

Lunch: Continue to Kakopetria or Platres for a village meal. Kakopetria (north Troodos slopes) is particularly beautiful — a preserved stone village with rushing streams and good trout tavernes.

Afternoon: Drive east through the mountains toward Nicosia. Stop at the Caledonian Waterfall trail near Platres if time allows (45-minute return walk, paved, easy).

Sleep: Nicosia (1 night). The Hilton Nicosia (€110/night) or Classic Hotel (€75/night) are both central and reliable.

Day 4 — Nicosia and the crossing: one city, two countries

Morning — South Nicosia

Nicosia is the only divided capital city in the world. Even before you cross, the south side is fascinating: the Cyprus Museum (€4.50) contains the finest collection of Cypriot antiquity on the island — Bronze Age terracotta figurines, sculpture, jewellery spanning 8,000 years. Allow two hours.

Walk the Venetian walls and explore the old town streets toward Ledra Street.

Nicosia: Last Divided City, Tour combining South & North — a guided tour of Nicosia that contextualises the partition, the Green Line buffer zone and the political history in accessible terms.

Late morning — The Green Line crossing

Walk to the Ledra Street crossing (or use Agios Dometios or Astromeritis if you are driving). Crossing takes 5–15 minutes: show your passport, receive a slip of paper (your entry record — keep it), and walk into a different world.

Nicosia: Green Line and Buffer Zone Guided Tour — a guided tour focusing specifically on the buffer zone, UN-administered territory between the two sides.

The atmosphere shift is immediate: fewer tourists, lower prices, older buildings less renovated, Turkish language replacing Greek. North Nicosia (Lefkosya) has the Büyük Han (Great Inn, a magnificent 16th-century Ottoman caravanserai), the Selimiye Mosque (formerly the Cathedral of Saint Sophia, a Gothic structure converted to mosque under Ottoman rule), and the Bedesten bazaar.

Have lunch in North Nicosia — the Sedirhan restaurant in Büyük Han courtyard is a reliable choice, with good Cypriot-Turkish cuisine (pay in euros or TRY).

Afternoon: Drive north to Kyrenia (~50 km, 45 min) or cross back to collect your car and drive via the Ledra crossing.

Sleep: Kyrenia (1 night). Portucale Hotel (€80/night) near the harbour, or The Colony Hotel (€110/night) for more comfort. Pay in euros or TRY.

Day 5 — Kyrenia: St. Hilarion, Bellapais and the harbour

Morning — St. Hilarion Castle

St. Hilarion Castle is one of the most dramatic medieval fortresses in the Mediterranean — three concentric wards climbing a limestone ridge at 732 m, with views across the Kyrenia mountain range to the sea on both sides. Richard the Lionheart captured it in 1191 on his way to the Crusades. The upper ward (Queen’s window viewpoint) requires a 20-minute climb but rewards with extraordinary views.

From Kyrenia: Half-Day St. Hilarion Castle & Bellapais Tour — a half-day guided tour combining St. Hilarion Castle with Bellapais Abbey, with expert context on the Crusader history of Northern Cyprus.

Afternoon — Bellapais Abbey and Kyrenia harbour

Bellapais Abbey is a 13th-century Gothic abbey in extraordinary condition, perched on a hillside with views down to the coast. Lawrence Durrell lived in the village below from 1953 to 1956 and wrote “Bitter Lemons of Cyprus” here — still the best literary portrait of the island.

Kyrenia Harbour is the most picturesque harbour in Cyprus: a semicircular medieval port with the castle at one end and a ring of tavernes along the quay. The Kyrenia Castle and its museum (containing the oldest intact shipwreck in the world, a 4th-century BC merchant vessel) are excellent. Walk the quay at sunset with an Efes beer.

Evening: Dinner at the harbour. Niazi’s Restaurant is the classic Kyrenia lamb kebab destination; for fish, try Harbour Club.

Sleep: Kyrenia (1 night, second night if preferred — see variations).

Day 6 — Famagusta: walled city, ghost town and Salamis

Drive from Kyrenia to Famagusta (50 km, 45 min via the north coast road). Famagusta was once the richest city in the world — briefly, in the 13th century. What remains is astonishing.

Morning — Famagusta walled city

The Venetian walls of Famagusta are among the finest medieval fortifications in existence — 3 km of bastions, towers and gates built in the 16th century before the Ottoman conquest of 1571. Inside the walls: the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (formerly the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, a near-perfect Gothic cathedral), the Othello Tower (named for the Shakespeare connection; disputed), and dozens of ruined Gothic churches scattered through what is now a working Cypriot-Turkish town.

From North Cyprus: Famagusta Tour, Ghost Town — a guided tour of Famagusta covering the walled city, the ghost town of Varosha and the historical context. Essential for understanding what you are looking at.

Afternoon — Varosha and Salamis

Varosha (Maras) was the upmarket tourist district of Famagusta, abandoned overnight when the Turkish army advanced in 1974. For decades it was a sealed ghost town visible only through wire fences. Since 2020, parts of it have reopened (controversially — the Republic of Cyprus considers this illegal under UN resolutions). Walking through what is open is an eerie, thought-provoking experience.

Ancient Salamis (10 km north of Famagusta) was the greatest city of ancient Cyprus — a site of enormous extent, with the gymnasium and baths, a theatre, a basilica, and the Royal Tombs across the road. Allow 2 hours. The site is large and partly overgrown; good shoes recommended.

Evening: Drive back to Kyrenia for a final northern Cyprus dinner, or stay overnight in Famagusta (fewer hotel options but the Salamis Bay Conti Resort at the beach north of the city is reliable).

Day 7 — Return south and Larnaca departure

Morning — Cross back south

Drive to Nicosia (50 km from Kyrenia, 45 min), recross at Ledra Street or Agios Dometios, collect your southern hire car. The crossing back south is fast — usually 5–10 minutes.

Drive to Larnaca (90 km from Nicosia, 1 hr via the A1). If your flight is in the evening, you have time for:

• A walk along the Larnaca seafront (Finikoudes) and a visit to the Church of Saint Lazarus.
• A swim at Mackenzie Beach.
• The Larnaca Salt Lake (flamingos October–March).

Larnaca: Private Walking Tour of the City with a Local Guide — a private guided walking tour of Larnaca’s historical city centre, useful if you have 3–4 hours before your flight.

Fly out: Larnaca International Airport (LCA) is 5 km from the city centre.

What to book in advance

1. Paphos/Akamas: Blue Lagoon Bus & Boat Tour with Water Slide — Day 2 Blue Lagoon. Book at least a week ahead.
2. Nicosia: Last Divided City, Tour combining South & North — Day 4 Nicosia guided tour.
3. From Kyrenia: Half-Day St. Hilarion Castle & Bellapais Tour — Day 5 St. Hilarion and Bellapais.
4. From North Cyprus: Famagusta Tour, Ghost Town — Day 6 Famagusta guided tour. Strong recommend — context is everything here.
5. Nicosia: Green Line and Buffer Zone Guided Tour — buffer zone tour. Book in advance; groups are small.

Driving and logistics

Car strategy: Option A — use one hire car with north-side insurance add-on (~€30 extra). Option B — drive to Nicosia, park, cross on foot, take a north-side taxi or hire a north-side car for Days 5–6.

Crossing points:

• Ledra Street (Nicosia, pedestrian only): most central, open daily.
• Agios Dometios (Nicosia, vehicle crossing): 3 km west of centre, open daily.
• Astromeritis (Nicosia district, vehicle): less busy.

Currency: South — euros. North — Turkish lira (TRY), though euros are widely accepted. GBP also accepted in tourist areas.

North-side fuel: Cheaper than the south (~10–15%). Fill up in the north before crossing back.

Roads: Northern Cyprus roads are in reasonable condition on main routes. The coast road between Kyrenia and Famagusta via the Karpaz peninsula is scenic but unpaved in places — not suitable for a standard hire car.

Distances (north side):

• North Nicosia → Kyrenia: 27 km (25 min)
• Kyrenia → Famagusta: 55 km (50 min)
• Famagusta → North Nicosia: 50 km (45 min)

Variations

For extra north Cyprus time: Spend two nights in Kyrenia (Days 5–6) and turn the Famagusta visit into a day trip. This gives you a proper rest day in Kyrenia and time for a boat trip along the north coast.

Karpaz peninsula add-on: If you have an extra day, the Karpaz (Karpas) peninsula — the “panhandle” of Cyprus reaching northeast — is wild, beautiful, and largely untouched. Wild donkeys roam the peninsula; the monastery of Apostolos Andreas at the tip is undergoing restoration.

From North Cyprus: Karpaz Peninsula Tour — a day trip to the Karpaz peninsula, covering the monastery, wild donkeys and deserted beaches.

For archaeology specialists: Replace the Akamas day (Day 2) with a deeper dive into Paphos including Choirokoitia (Neolithic UNESCO site), then extend Salamis to three hours on Day 6.

Frequently asked questions about this itinerary

Is crossing into Northern Cyprus safe?

Yes. The crossing is straightforward and safe. Thousands of tourists cross daily. The administrative process is simple — passport check and a slip of paper. Maintain normal tourist awareness on both sides.

Will a Cyprus stamp in my passport cause problems with Turkey?

No. Republic of Cyprus stamps in your passport do not affect your ability to visit Turkey. The reverse is also true: a Turkish or Northern Cyprus entry record does not affect your Republic of Cyprus entry.

Do I need separate travel insurance for Northern Cyprus?

Your standard travel insurance almost certainly covers Northern Cyprus. Check your policy’s territorial exclusions. Most EU, UK, US and Australian policies cover it without issue.

Can I take my hire car from south to north?

With the north-side insurance add-on from your rental company (if they offer it), yes. If they do not offer it, you must either buy local north-side insurance at the crossing (~€30) or rent a separate car in the north. Never assume your standard hire car is covered — check explicitly.

Is this itinerary suitable for children?

Yes, with adjustments. The crossings are not difficult, and children often find the “two countries in one island” concept fascinating. St. Hilarion Castle is excellent for children who like castles. Varosha may be unsettling for younger children; explain the history simply. The Blue Lagoon day is perfect for families.